I know, it's been a while since I've posted anything......
Recently Channel 5 News did a story on Dr. Lisa Hart's Emergency Pet Clinic. You
can read the print article here.
I have read a lot of negative comments on Craigs List regarding Dr. Hart. I don't know how true they are, but the comments did make me do some thinking.
Dr. Hart has helped 2 of my pets with medical issues on an emergency basis. Both survived and are doing well.
What I did think about is how an expose can incite panic and cast a dark shadow over an entire profession.
Most veterinarians (and technicians) are not working to just make a buck. They are sincerely interested in your animals well being and fostering the human-animal bond.
The news article is correct in that vets (and technicians) should maintain licensure, attend continuing education classes and keep animals in their care safe.
So, how do you know who to trust? Ask questions. Look at the office. Are the waiting area and exam rooms clean and free of odor? Are the support staff (receptionists, assistants and technicians) happy? Is your pet comfortable at the office? Does your pet come back to you clean after staying the day at the vet's?
The American Animal Hospital Association is an accrediting company that ensures its members adhere to certain basic values and practices in the Veterinary profession. This can be a good starting point, though keep in mind that many good vets are not members of this company.
I will not tell you who is a good vet and who to avoid. I do want you to be an educated consumer though. Use the same criteria you used to chooose your family doctor and you wil be on the right track.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Trick or Treat?
I want to move away from the dog-shape discussion for a bit because of the wonderful day at the end of the month where we knock on strangers' doors and they give us candy.
Halloween is a fun holiday, and here's a shameless FIDO plug for the Howl o Ween party on Saturday, October 27th form 12 - 3 PM at the DogPark. Hope to see you there!
*these figures are taken from www.hersheys.com*
So what?!
Here's why I gave you these numbers:
My dog, Ein, is about 90 lbs. Her lethal dose of theobromine is 9 mg X 90 lbs = 810 mg (roughly 11 Milk Chocolate or 4 Special Dark bars) to 18 mg X 90 lbs = 1620 mg (22 Milk Chocolate or 9 Special Dark bark).
What happens if your pet eats chocolate?
You could see nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, seizures, heart arrhythmias or death.
What do you do if your pet eats chocolate?
Call your vet or your nearest veterinary emergency center.
Tell them:
What kind of chocolate your dog ate
What volume of chocolate your dog ate (an estimate is ok)
How long ago your dog ate the chocolate
They will direct you on how to care for your pet.
Happy Halloween!
Halloween is a fun holiday, and here's a shameless FIDO plug for the Howl o Ween party on Saturday, October 27th form 12 - 3 PM at the DogPark. Hope to see you there!
As always, Chocolate is not good for your dog (and cat). You may have been told this by your veterinarian, but the reason why is not always communicated. So, here's why: (I took the scientific explanation from http://chemistry.about.com/library/weekly/aa090301a.htm.
Quote:
Cocoa and chocolate products may be toxic or lethal to dogs and other domestic animals such as horses because these animals metabolize theobromine more slowly than humans. The heart, central nervous system, and kidneys are affected. Early signs of theobromine poisoning in dogs include nausea and vomiting, restlessness, diarrhea, muscle tremors, and increased urination or incontinence. The treatment at this stage is to induce vomiting. Cardiac arrhythmias and seizures are symptoms of more advanced poisoning.
Different types of chocolate contain different amounts of theobromine. In general, theobromine levels are higher in dark chocolates (approximately 10 g/kg) than in milk chocolates (1-5 g/kg). Higher quality chocolate tends to contain more theobromine than lower quality chocolate. Cocoa beans naturally contain approximately 300-1200 mg/ounce theobromine (note how variable this is!).
End quote.
Some facts:
Toxic doses of theobromine is 9 mg per pound of dog for mild signs, up to 18 mg per pound of dog for severe signs. (From www.vin.com)
One 1.55 oz Hershey's Milk chocolate bar contains 74 mg of theobromine.
*these figures are taken from www.hersheys.com*
So what?!
Here's why I gave you these numbers:
My dog, Ein, is about 90 lbs. Her lethal dose of theobromine is 9 mg X 90 lbs = 810 mg (roughly 11 Milk Chocolate or 4 Special Dark bars) to 18 mg X 90 lbs = 1620 mg (22 Milk Chocolate or 9 Special Dark bark).
What happens if your pet eats chocolate?
You could see nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, seizures, heart arrhythmias or death.
What do you do if your pet eats chocolate?
Call your vet or your nearest veterinary emergency center.
Tell them:
What kind of chocolate your dog ate
What volume of chocolate your dog ate (an estimate is ok)
How long ago your dog ate the chocolate
They will direct you on how to care for your pet.
Happy Halloween!
Friday, August 24, 2007
What's the score?
People often wonder if they are feeding enough, too much or too little food to their pets, but how can you tell if it's just fur or fat?
Body Condition Scoring (BCS) is the standardized way for owners and veterinary professionals to check on Fido's flab. This scoring system is done by evaluating 3 parameters of your pet: How easy it is to feel your pet's ribs and your pet's outline from the top and side.
Tickle those ribs! If you can run your hands across your pet's chest and feel ribs with slight pressure, that is good. If you can play the xylophone on those ribs, your pet doesn't have enough fat. If it feels like pushing a sofa cushion with the tv remote underneath, there's too much fat.
From the top! Your pet should have an indentation or waistline. If your pet has a nice gentle curve from above, that is good. If your pet has the waist of an 1800's Victorian lady, your pet doesn't have enough fat. If your pet looks like a link of sausage from Octoberfest, there's too much fat.
From the side! Your pet should have a nice gentle slope up from the chest to the abdomen. If it looks more like a steep ski jump, there's not enough fat. If your pets outline from the side looks like a level table or the outline goes on a downward slope, there's too much fat.
Body Condition Scores are usually reported on a 5 or 9 point scale. Example: Ein, the wonderpuppy, would score a 3/5 on the 5 point scale or a 4/9 on the 9 point scale.
I prefer the 5 point scale, just because of the simplicity. Some vets like the 9 point scale because it offers a greater chance to pinpoint the exact condition.
The 5 point scale can be found at Hill's PetFit website here.
Purina has a good explanation of the 9 point scale here.
On the 5 point scale, the ideal pet would score a 3. Ideal on the 9 point scale is a 4 or 5.
Next time you take your pet in for a check up, make sure to ask your Vet for the Body Condition Score. Keeping track of this is better than just going by weight alone.
Now that you know how, what's the score?
Next time, we will learn what to do if your pet scored high on the Body Condition Score.
Body Condition Scoring (BCS) is the standardized way for owners and veterinary professionals to check on Fido's flab. This scoring system is done by evaluating 3 parameters of your pet: How easy it is to feel your pet's ribs and your pet's outline from the top and side.
Tickle those ribs! If you can run your hands across your pet's chest and feel ribs with slight pressure, that is good. If you can play the xylophone on those ribs, your pet doesn't have enough fat. If it feels like pushing a sofa cushion with the tv remote underneath, there's too much fat.
From the top! Your pet should have an indentation or waistline. If your pet has a nice gentle curve from above, that is good. If your pet has the waist of an 1800's Victorian lady, your pet doesn't have enough fat. If your pet looks like a link of sausage from Octoberfest, there's too much fat.
From the side! Your pet should have a nice gentle slope up from the chest to the abdomen. If it looks more like a steep ski jump, there's not enough fat. If your pets outline from the side looks like a level table or the outline goes on a downward slope, there's too much fat.
Body Condition Scores are usually reported on a 5 or 9 point scale. Example: Ein, the wonderpuppy, would score a 3/5 on the 5 point scale or a 4/9 on the 9 point scale.
I prefer the 5 point scale, just because of the simplicity. Some vets like the 9 point scale because it offers a greater chance to pinpoint the exact condition.
The 5 point scale can be found at Hill's PetFit website here.
Purina has a good explanation of the 9 point scale here.
On the 5 point scale, the ideal pet would score a 3. Ideal on the 9 point scale is a 4 or 5.
Next time you take your pet in for a check up, make sure to ask your Vet for the Body Condition Score. Keeping track of this is better than just going by weight alone.
Now that you know how, what's the score?
Next time, we will learn what to do if your pet scored high on the Body Condition Score.
Friday, July 27, 2007
Protozoa, Bacteria and Algae, Oh My!
Many people have been asking about the safety/health issues with letting their dogs swim in ponds and other public water areas. There are a number of parasites, bacteria and algae that can harm our pets.
The first and foremost of these is Giardia. Giardia is a protozoal (meaning they can swim) parasite that causes a really bad diarrhea. It can be found in standing water such as puddles and ponds. Giardia can also be caught from eating poop that is infected (Butt sniffing/licking is a way this happens).
Giardia has 2 stages: cyst and trophozoite. The cyst stage is what your dog picks up, basically a package of 2 little Giardia waiting for a good environment to wake up and reproduce in. The cysts can survive in moist environments for a very long time. After your dog ingests the cysts, they travel to the intestines where they break out of the cyst and go into the trophozoite stage. This is when they multiply faster than teenage bunny rabbits and cause your dog to have really yucky diarrhea. The cysts can survive in moist environments for a very long time.
At this point, usually you take your dog to the vet because you are tired of cleaning up nasty poop. (Be prepared to bring a sample of the stool for the vet appointment - make sure it is something less than 24 hours old and has not been frozen) Your vet will do a complete physical and will have the Technician do a few tests on the poop to check for parasites- usually a fecal float (will check for the usual parasites - sometimes they can see the trophozoites or cysts of Giardia but they are very tiny so they usually aren't seen on this test), and if your vet has the test kit, they can do a special test for Giardia. Make sure to tell your vet if your dog has been in areas of standing water or has been swimming in ponds. This will help him to choose the best tests and treatments for your dog.
If your dog tests positive for Giardia, he/she will be given medicine to treat the problem. The medicines are typically Metronidazole (name brand is Flagyl) or Fenbendazole (name brand is Panacur). If you own more than one pet, make sure to tell your vet this as well. Sometimes he will treat all the dogs in the household at the same time. Keeping your dog's enviroment clean will help keep Giardia from reappearing in your dog. Make sure to wear gloves and wash your hands after cleaning up the yard -- People can get Giardia too!
Dogs can get bacteria such as E. coli from swimming in infected water. E. coli is a bacteria that normally occurs in many animals' stool. When dogs swim in water and poop, E. coli is present. If enough dogs poop in the water, others can become infected. Again this causes a yucky diarrhea. Vets typically use antibiotics to treat this bacteria.
There has been talk of a blue-green algae that dogs can ingest while swimming in algae-infested ponds. This blue-green algae can be toxic when it is ingested in large amounts and dogs can become really sick or can die. It is not very common, but is it dangerous.
So, what should you do? Keep your water loving retriever out of all but the backyard swimming pool? Discourage your dog from drinking in puddles at the park? No, but you should use some common sense. Don't let your dog swim in areas where other dogs poop and the water is untreated. Even if the water is treated, keep your eyes out for signs of diarrhea and call your vet as soon as the problem arises. Pick up your dog's waste, even if you are in the park and no one is around to see you pick it up. Keeping dog waste from entering the water supply will do a lot to keep other animals and people healthy.
This is not an exhaustive list of problems associated with water and dogs, but Giardia is very common. A recent Idexx (veterinary laboratory) study showed that about 11% of dogs with diarrhea or other gastrointestinal problems test positive for Giardia.
If you have questions about these problems or are concerned about letting your dog swim in ponds, call your vet and ask him his recommendations.
See you at the park!
The first and foremost of these is Giardia. Giardia is a protozoal (meaning they can swim) parasite that causes a really bad diarrhea. It can be found in standing water such as puddles and ponds. Giardia can also be caught from eating poop that is infected (Butt sniffing/licking is a way this happens).
Giardia has 2 stages: cyst and trophozoite. The cyst stage is what your dog picks up, basically a package of 2 little Giardia waiting for a good environment to wake up and reproduce in. The cysts can survive in moist environments for a very long time. After your dog ingests the cysts, they travel to the intestines where they break out of the cyst and go into the trophozoite stage. This is when they multiply faster than teenage bunny rabbits and cause your dog to have really yucky diarrhea. The cysts can survive in moist environments for a very long time.
At this point, usually you take your dog to the vet because you are tired of cleaning up nasty poop. (Be prepared to bring a sample of the stool for the vet appointment - make sure it is something less than 24 hours old and has not been frozen) Your vet will do a complete physical and will have the Technician do a few tests on the poop to check for parasites- usually a fecal float (will check for the usual parasites - sometimes they can see the trophozoites or cysts of Giardia but they are very tiny so they usually aren't seen on this test), and if your vet has the test kit, they can do a special test for Giardia. Make sure to tell your vet if your dog has been in areas of standing water or has been swimming in ponds. This will help him to choose the best tests and treatments for your dog.
If your dog tests positive for Giardia, he/she will be given medicine to treat the problem. The medicines are typically Metronidazole (name brand is Flagyl) or Fenbendazole (name brand is Panacur). If you own more than one pet, make sure to tell your vet this as well. Sometimes he will treat all the dogs in the household at the same time. Keeping your dog's enviroment clean will help keep Giardia from reappearing in your dog. Make sure to wear gloves and wash your hands after cleaning up the yard -- People can get Giardia too!
Dogs can get bacteria such as E. coli from swimming in infected water. E. coli is a bacteria that normally occurs in many animals' stool. When dogs swim in water and poop, E. coli is present. If enough dogs poop in the water, others can become infected. Again this causes a yucky diarrhea. Vets typically use antibiotics to treat this bacteria.
There has been talk of a blue-green algae that dogs can ingest while swimming in algae-infested ponds. This blue-green algae can be toxic when it is ingested in large amounts and dogs can become really sick or can die. It is not very common, but is it dangerous.
So, what should you do? Keep your water loving retriever out of all but the backyard swimming pool? Discourage your dog from drinking in puddles at the park? No, but you should use some common sense. Don't let your dog swim in areas where other dogs poop and the water is untreated. Even if the water is treated, keep your eyes out for signs of diarrhea and call your vet as soon as the problem arises. Pick up your dog's waste, even if you are in the park and no one is around to see you pick it up. Keeping dog waste from entering the water supply will do a lot to keep other animals and people healthy.
This is not an exhaustive list of problems associated with water and dogs, but Giardia is very common. A recent Idexx (veterinary laboratory) study showed that about 11% of dogs with diarrhea or other gastrointestinal problems test positive for Giardia.
If you have questions about these problems or are concerned about letting your dog swim in ponds, call your vet and ask him his recommendations.
See you at the park!
Friday, July 20, 2007
This evening at the dog park, Ein and I met a very nice woman who's poor dog had a hot spot. Hot Spots are areas of moist dermatitis that occur mostly in the spring/summer, typically on golden retrievers and other thick coated, long haired dogs.
They are basically patches of raw, oozing skin that are very painful for the dog. Usually these nasty things crop up when a dog has gotten wet (bathing, swimming, or playing in the mud and rain at the park!) and does not get dried thoroughly. The skin stays moist under all that fur and becomes soft enough for bacteria to invade the deeper layers, creating a nasty smelling very sore spot that is red and raw.
How do you treat hot spots? See your vet. Usually your vet will trim the hair over the hot spot and surrounding area to allow for air flow to help dry up the skin. Then a course of antibiotics and anti-inflammatory medications are commonly prescribed. All vets have their method of treating this, so do what your vet tells you to do. Once allowed to dry out, the hot spot usually forms a scab over the skin and will heal.
The best way to treat hot spots is with prevention. Make sure to thoroughly dry your dog after baths, swimming, or being in the rain. This means you may need to use multiple towels and a forced air dryer (maybe it's time to visit a u-wash dog wash- they provide all the towels and dryer and you get to leave the mess). If you use a hair dryer be extremely careful to not burn your dog (then you have a whole other can of worms to deal with).
If your dog is a messy drinker or plays with his/her water dish, you will need to be vigilant to keep your dog dry as well.
Again: if your pet has a hot spot, call your vet. He/she will be able to help you deal with this problem quickly and your dog will love you for it!
They are basically patches of raw, oozing skin that are very painful for the dog. Usually these nasty things crop up when a dog has gotten wet (bathing, swimming, or playing in the mud and rain at the park!) and does not get dried thoroughly. The skin stays moist under all that fur and becomes soft enough for bacteria to invade the deeper layers, creating a nasty smelling very sore spot that is red and raw.
How do you treat hot spots? See your vet. Usually your vet will trim the hair over the hot spot and surrounding area to allow for air flow to help dry up the skin. Then a course of antibiotics and anti-inflammatory medications are commonly prescribed. All vets have their method of treating this, so do what your vet tells you to do. Once allowed to dry out, the hot spot usually forms a scab over the skin and will heal.
The best way to treat hot spots is with prevention. Make sure to thoroughly dry your dog after baths, swimming, or being in the rain. This means you may need to use multiple towels and a forced air dryer (maybe it's time to visit a u-wash dog wash- they provide all the towels and dryer and you get to leave the mess). If you use a hair dryer be extremely careful to not burn your dog (then you have a whole other can of worms to deal with).
If your dog is a messy drinker or plays with his/her water dish, you will need to be vigilant to keep your dog dry as well.
Again: if your pet has a hot spot, call your vet. He/she will be able to help you deal with this problem quickly and your dog will love you for it!
Monday, July 16, 2007
Home Prepared or Commercially Prepared Diets - What's the difference?
There is a large debate over what is appropriate to feed our dogs - a home prepared diet or a commercially manufactured diet. While the notion of cooking for your dog gives a sense of wholesomeness, it is to be approached with great caution. Home prepared diets can be very nutritious if prepared using a recipe book such as "Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets: the Healthful Alternative" by Donald R. Strombeck, DVM. This book contains many great recipes for your dog that are fully balanced.
Fortunately for those of us who choose not to cook for our dogs, there are many great commercially manufactured diets. Iams, Eukanuba, Hills, Purina, Nutro and Royal Canin are reputable companies (as are many others). The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is the organization that dictates what nutrients should be in our pet foods. On the bag, can, or pouch of food will be an AAFCO statement that tells you what life stage the food is appropriate for. Any food that has an AAFCO statement appropriate for your dog's stage of life is ok to feed your otherwise healthy pet.
One other type of diet for your dog is the so called "BARF" diet. This is a bones and raw food diet. Many veterinarians do not suggest feeding this type of food because it is a raw food product that can easily grow salmonella, E. Coli, and other bacteria that are dangerous to your pet.
Before changing your pet's food, it is important to talk with your veterinarian about your decision. He or she can help you choose an appropriate diet and will be able to discuss the pros and cons of feeding a commercially prepared diet versus a home prepared diet.
Fortunately for those of us who choose not to cook for our dogs, there are many great commercially manufactured diets. Iams, Eukanuba, Hills, Purina, Nutro and Royal Canin are reputable companies (as are many others). The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) is the organization that dictates what nutrients should be in our pet foods. On the bag, can, or pouch of food will be an AAFCO statement that tells you what life stage the food is appropriate for. Any food that has an AAFCO statement appropriate for your dog's stage of life is ok to feed your otherwise healthy pet.
One other type of diet for your dog is the so called "BARF" diet. This is a bones and raw food diet. Many veterinarians do not suggest feeding this type of food because it is a raw food product that can easily grow salmonella, E. Coli, and other bacteria that are dangerous to your pet.
Before changing your pet's food, it is important to talk with your veterinarian about your decision. He or she can help you choose an appropriate diet and will be able to discuss the pros and cons of feeding a commercially prepared diet versus a home prepared diet.
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